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BASIC KNITTING STITCHES

 

STOCKINNETTE STITCH - Any number of sts.

{Cast on 20 sts - work at least 20 rows}

1st row (right side): K across

2nd row: purl across

                        This stitch is very popular on many knitting patterns because it is smooth, thin and comfortable to wear.  Its disadvantage, however, is that is curls up unless borded on the sides with a balanced stitch such as Garter or Seed st; and on the bottom with an appropriate ribbing. It works very well in any piece which will be knit in the round (such as a sock) or sewn into a round tube, such as a sweater body and sleeve.  It will, however, need to be sewn into a seam on the bottom edges or balanced with a ribbing.

 


 GARTER STITCH - Any number of sts.

{Cast on 20 sts - work at least 20 rows}

Row 1: Sl 1, k across

Repeat for every row

            When working any square piece, work the same number of ridges ( 2 rows make one ridge) as the number of sts on the needle.  Bind off on the Wrong side on the last row.

              Garter st may be used in many ways and combinations.  Used alone, it is just plain uninteresting, but in combination or in conjunction withother pattern stitches it is most valuable.  Articles that must "grow up" with an infant are often made in Garter St because it has considerable lengthwise stretch.  It is also a very warm stitch, no matter what weight of yarn is used. Its very nature produces a sort of double thickness and provides more warmth and insulation than other flat stitches.

              When working a strip, such as a scarf or a large or small rectangle or square - for a shawl or for pieces for an afghan - many people prefer to start each row with a slipped st, this st to be slipped knit-wise. When edges are to be picked up and worked in another direction, it is wise to slip the first st on every row and to purl the last st of every row.  This produces a chain at each edge which facilitates the knitting process.  Also, when picking up sts, it is easy to pick up to gauge, as you can rely on garter st edges to be one st to one ridge, which will make the added piece exactly match the original piece in size and guage.


  K1, P1 RIBBING - Any even number of sts.

{for class cast on 20 sts - work at least 20 rows}

Row 1: *K1, p1 *, repeat between * and * across row ending p1.

Repeat for every row.  Remember to move yarn to back when changing to k, and move it to the front when changing to purl. Bind off maintaining k1, p1 pattern.

            This stitch provides a border on the bottom of most knit garments. It keeps the end from curling and also draws the stitches in tighter, for a better fit. It is also good for any garment which you want to "cling" such as the body of a sock.


STOCKINETTE W/GARTER EDGE & RIBBING - 

Cast on 20 sts. Work k1, p1, ribbing for 4 rows. * Sl 1, k across, sl 1, k3, p12, k4 *. Rep from * to * for 2 1/2". Work k1, p1 ribbing for 4 rows. Bind off.

            Putting a border and a rib on stockinette keeps it from curling.  


Kitchener Stitch (invisible seam for closing toes of socks)

Thread end of yarn through tapestry needle. *Sew through first st of front needle as if to k and sl st off. Sew next st on front needle as if to p, but leave on. Sew through first st of back needle as if to p, and sl st off, sew through next st of back needle as if to k and leave st on.* Rep from * to the end. Tie off and work in ends.

 

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